嗨,汤姆,如果我假设正确,它是一个古老的财产,在我听起来,re-skimming已经完成的原始石膏可以一定程度上如果原始的东西很声音和固体但不幸的是你永远的风险发展中裂缝re-skim老,原来的石膏。如果你是填补裂缝和他们不断再现,然后看起来支持石膏是在一个很贫穷的,和不应该被re-skimmed到不稳定的条件。供方确认的时候我去过一个工作,顾客有一个泥水匠的re-skim房间&裂缝到处都出现了因为他们有坏的建议是令人震惊的。只有真正eleminate这一问题的解决方案是回到砖和重新开始与一个完整的re-plaster无论多少次你填补裂缝,他们会继续回来了,随着时间的推移,恐怕会变得更糟!希望这有助于,卡尔。(注:如果是一种新型财产&都登上了,然后我flummuxed !,)

子结构是正确的如果你想要完成100%……无论如果成本是一个问题那么简单得到所有纸,sugersoap可以清洁膏,但我一直应用白色乙烯基马特底漆后直接剥离然后离开墙壁干燥24小时。一旦干燥的白色底漆将密封膏和停止粘贴污染进一步外套。填充和刮上完成底漆和白色会强调所有不好的领域。我一直在做这个系统和从未有过的问题粘贴……祝你好运蒂姆

是的,这是唯一的方法。任何已经忽略的木制品都必须把充分允许一个像样的足够好的底漆的关键。只有这样,作为面漆光泽可以应用。(光泽不会adehere老光泽)希望这有助于. .

嗨novice_40,首先,祝你好运与您的项目,我希望你喜欢它。新贴墙/天花板总是需要适当密封绘画开始前(否则油漆表面会和很容易脱落)。你可以运用一些乳液的雾层(稀释比例水乳剂的初始解,然后第二个雾外套与比率逆转,加厚的报道,但仍水足以允许它继续陷入下面的石膏)。或者,正如汤姆所暗示的,你可以买一个目的使底漆。如果泥水匠在抛光的墙上,这后一个选项将是最好的,因为石膏不会允许雾外套渗入和坚持正确。如果你有一个大区域/几个墙壁,然后最成本有效的方式为你将雾外套——这些都是完全可以接受的行业标准和方法。普通白乳胶是合适的和负担得起的和容易买到。从最低点开始模糊在石膏和向上移动&辊。薄雾外套迅速干&这个自底向上方法停止你发胖的油漆上了石膏。削减边缘刷。 if the ceiling is also bare, then progress onto the ceiling. within the hour, your walls will be ready for the second mist coat. apply this in the same order as the first. a word of caution: even with the best intentions, mist coats can involve a bit of splashing, so make sure your flooring is protected & the sockets temporarily turned off & covered. once the 2 mist coats have fully dried you can more easily assess the plasterer's handiwork. use a spatula to fill any minor dents & give these a light sanding, once cured. anything major & get the plasterer back to resolve it. you don't want to be sanding down large areas of plaster, as this will cause a rough & spoilt finish that will need copious filling & sanding to put right. now, use a proper water-based wood primer for your bare woodwork - for the same reasons as you need to seal fresh plaster. a primer-undercoat is perfectly suitable - though you will need 2 coats: one to prime, a second to undercoat. a third coat is optional, but we'll get to that in a mo. alternatively, you can buy 2 separate paints: one a specified wood primer & the second a specified undercoat. whilst the primer should be water-based, the undercoat can be oil-based - though only if your satinwood is also oil-based. this method can improve the longevity of the finish. once your primer/first layer of primer-undercoat is dry, caulk your woodwork. next, move back to your ceiling/walls. this time begin with the ceiling (either silk or matt are suitable finishes - but silk is a more reflective surface that draws the eye & can accentuate any imperfections). get your first coat on. cut in free-hand, moving your brush from 1/2 inch away from the corner inwards towards the join as your hand steadies & finds the line. don't try to leap straight into the corner unless you've got a steady hand. whether you cut in before or after rollering is down to personal preference. i prefer beforehand as it avoids a visible 'tram line' created by dragging your brush through a rollered section. whichever you choose, ensure you keep a wet edge (ie: don't allow the paint to dry between cutting in & rollering). allow the edges to dry, then move down to the walls. get your first coat of dulux endurance on. cut in free-hand. once dried, repeat the process for your second coats. if you are prepared to wait up to a couple of days between coats (dep. on drying conditions) for the paint to fully cure, you can use (yellow) frog tape to help you achieve a clean line between surfaces. be very careful when removing it however, as this can pull the paint back off if it isn't fully cured. finally, give your woodwork a light sanding to remove any splashes of paint & nibs of rough wood fibres. ideally, apply another undercoat, to improve the coverage & durability, then (when dry) apply your satinwood top coat. again, if you're happy the walls have cured sufficiently, frog tape can give you a razor sharp line where the satinwood meets the emulsion. take care when peeling it away. there you have it! any questions, feel free to give me a holla. meantime, i hope this helps. happy painting! best, alix james decorators